Scrunchy Top!

 This is pretty much what I ended up making yesterday, but due to my 'spaziness' the tutorial didn't happen. But alas! Today is a new day, and I have this lovely thrifted Express men's shirt waiting to be fixed up for my mom!

 Alright, nerd. This is the kind of photo awkwardness that I was talking about. : /

This shirt is really very simple, and it only takes a little while to make. Especially if you don't have a 3 year old that needs your attention for *VERY IMPORTANT* matters approximately every 15 minutes. (reassembling Legos, changing the channel, making rotini pasta at 10am...etc.)

First, (since everything is already washed, ironed and laid out completely flat ) we make a nice straight line from armpit to armpit. Then cut along aforementioned line. 

 Bam! You're done! Here you see my very stylish new top. Kidding! I'm kidding. I have plans for those sleeves, but that's another day.

The next step involves math... boooo! I don't like math, and math doesn't like me, but this is for a cute shirt, so an exception must be made. 

Step 1:  Measure around your chest (just under your armpits) 

Step 2: Take that number and divide it by 2

Step 3: Add 4. 

That's it! Whew! I did my calculations and my resulting number was 20. So I measured and marked my 20 inches (making sure the 10" mark was lined up with a button, so it's nice and even.) Since this is a stripey shirt, I just cut straight down a stripe. If you do not have the luxury of built in straight edges, you will have to take an extra moment to draw a nice straight line yourself, then cut!

Now to sew the placket closed. Use thread and stitch length that matched the existing stitching, and very carefully sew over the existing stitches. You're not going to want to skip this step, once you add the elastic, this will get all gap-y and not cute. I Do only sew down about half way, so the bottom button can still open, but it's all a matter of preference.

Now, while the front and back are still separate pieces, press and sew the top hem. I prefer 1/4" for this. I like to do this before I attach the front and back, because it's easier to make a nice hem when you can lay everything out flat.

Since I do not have a serger, but I still want a nice finished inside seam, I do a French seam.  It sounds fancy, but it's simple.

Step 1: Pin your front and back pieces together RIGHT SIDES OUT. I know this goes against your instinct, but it will be ok!

Step2: Sew down the sides, pretty close to the edge (I use the edge of the presser foot as a guide for 1/4")

Step 3: Trim the edges down a bit.

Step4: Press the seams open.

Step5: Turn the shirt wrong side out, and admire that crisp clean edge!

Step 6: Sew the sides again (now on the wrong side) about 1/4" allowance. Don't go too close to the edge, or the raw edge will peek through on the outside seam of the shirt.  This is what your inner seam will look like. The yucky edge is totally hidden!

Now for the fun part. I introduce to you: ELASTIC THREAD! This stuff changed my life. It gives you the ability to make things fitted and cute with minimal effort. The hardest part is hand-winding the bobbin. Make sure to not stretch the thread while winding it. Also, you will have to loosen the tension on your bobbin case. The first time there's a little trial and error, but once you get it figured out for your particular machine it's easy. 

Using a thread color that matches your fabric in your top spool, and your elastic thread in the bottom bobbin, start sewing along the top of the shirt, just under the hem. Start your stitches, and backstitch a few times to make sure the elastic won't come undone. I started just to the right of the placket, and finished just to the left of it.

Once you have the top gathered to your liking (I did two rows of elastic, pretty close to one another) put the shirt on, and determine where you want your waist gathering to be. This will be different for everyone, depending on your...um... boob size. I was making this for my mom, and hers are bigger than mine, so I left a little more room than I would have for myself.

Measure from the top-middle of the shirt down and make a mark, then do the same thing at each side seam, and again down the middle of the back. Use a ruler to connect your four marks. This is the line you will follow for your first row of elastic.

For the second and third lines, I use the edge of the presser foot as a spacing guide. (I did 3 rows of elastic, but you can make as may as you like.)

Taa daa!  Scrunchy-ness!

The fun part is when you steam over your shirt to set the elastic, it shrinks! (steam on the thread side, not the elastic side. It will melt if you're not careful!)

Now you can wear your shirt like this, or if you're like me and bras are not optional, you can add straps!

I used the pieces that I cut from the sides of the shirt to make the straps. The thickness is up to you, but make sure that the pieces are at least 16" long, or get a roundabout measurement from one of your bra straps. Having these be a little bit too long is better than having them be a little too short. 

Fold the pieces in half, press and stitch along the open end. Then turn them right-side-out.

Lay the straps so that the seam is in the center, and press.

Strap placement is a matter of personal preference. What I usually do is wear the bra that I would most likely be wearing with this top, and mark where the bra straps line up on the shirt. That way my straps do the maximum amount of bra strap coverage! You can trim the length to whatever feels best, the 16" was just to make sure you had enough to work with.

That's it! What's cool about this is you can wear it with the buttons in the front or back, depending on your mood.  Oh-so versatile ;)

 Here I am looking fabulous in shoes that I LOVE, but sadly can not walk in. At least they're getting some use as a photo prop! (I almost fell on my face walking from the camera to the spot I was standing in the picture)

 I hope Mom will like her new scrunchy top!

---CJ

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